Friday 27 September 2013

Pin Mill past and present

Arriving at Pin Mill this morning, with the sun shining, boats bobbing on the river and people enjoying a stroll along the shore, it occurred to me that little has changed here over the years. Tourism may be a recent phenomenon, replacing the once thriving barge trade, but the atmosphere and appearance of this waterside hamlet has altered little in the last century. In fact Pin Mill owes its existence to the river as much today as ever.

Pin Mill waterfront with the Butt and Oyster
Pin Mill waterfront today

The oldest and probably best known building is the Butt and Oyster public house which dates prior to 1456 when the Water Bailiffs court was held here.

The early pub served as a watering hole for sailors on the Thames barges which anchored in Buttermans Bay to unload their cargoes into smaller vessels ready for the journey to Ipswich. Tales of smuggling,  rife on the East Coast at the time, were common and often associated with the pub.

The Butt and Oyster today

Pin Mill  was also a busy landing point for ship-borne cargo, a centre for the repair of Thames sailing barges and home to many small industries such as sail making, boat building,  a maltings and a brickyard. Harry Kings boatyard which is still thriving today dates back to 1850 and is renowned for its traditional boat building and craftsmanship.

In the 1850's there were 50 boats working out of Pin Mill stone dredging and  fishing.

Today much of the early trade has gone. The barges no longer unload their cargoes here, but they still visit and are a common sight on the River. The annual Pin Mill Barge match is a reminder of the connection Pin Mill has with these graceful vessels. 

Barges on the hard 
Barges in Buttermans Bay
Pin Mill has long been a source of inspiration for artists and painters as well as a literary setting. Children's author Arthur Ransome set two of his Swallows and Amazons stories here. Alma Cottage just behind the pub became the holiday home for the Walker family in "We didn't mean to go to sea" and "Secret water" Ransome himself  kept one of his boats "Selina King" (built in Harry Kings yard) on the moorings at Pin Mill. 
Today artists and photographers still flock here to capture the many faces of this riverside hamlet.

For more information about the history of Pin Mill visit http://www.pinmillsociety.org.uk/index.php/history
Photography and painting courses can be booked from Anthony Cullen at the Pin Mill Studio http://www.photographicday.com/
Information about Arthur Ransome and his boat Nancy Blackett which still sails around Pin Mill today can be found at the Nancy Blackett Trust http://nancyblackett.org

Saturday 21 September 2013

What's great about a holiday aboard TG - our guests top 10 favourite experiences

We are often asked what a holiday aboard Twee Gebroeders is like. So to help anyone contemplating a visit next year we have put together a top 10  of must have experiences based on what our guests have most enjoyed this summer.

In no particular order the best things about our holidays are:

1. Exploring the Orwell and Stour aboard TG

Motoring TG past Felixstowe docks

Family time aboard TG
2. Playing Swallows and Amazons aboard our 1920's sailing boat "Twinkler" Twinkler is a very special little boat, she is 21 foot and is the oldest known Hillyard still afloat. Next year she will be joining TG to offer extra accommodation for those seeking a true "Swallows and Amazons" experience.

Twinkler might be little buts she is great fun...

even when passed by much bigger ships!

3. Fishing trips on the Orwell. There is nothing as satisfying as catching and cooking your own tea and Sea Bass make a wonderful meal!

Sea Bass for tea

4. Long walks in the countryside around Pin Mill. There are miles of riverside paths and woodland walks around the barge, and in the summer the poppy fields are amazing.

The Pin Mill poppy fields

5. The comfortable beds. Everyone who stays aboard TG comments on the beds; they are just soooo comfortable and after an active day in the fresh air a good nights sleep is almost guaranteed!

Cosy and comfortable; the master cabin

6. Breakfast, dinner or just a glass of wine in the cockpit. There is nothing better to start or finish the day.

The Cockpit has a wonderful view of the Orwell

7. Watching the Smack and Barge races which take place at Pin Mill every year in June. Following the race from the barge or from a chase boat is a wonderful experience.

The Pin Mill Smack race takes place every June

8. Watching the wildlife from the barge or out on the river. Whatever time of year there is always something to see from seals to avocets, deer to crabs. 

9. Watching the sunrise and sunset over the Orwell -just  amazing.

Sunrise over the Orwell

Sunset with TG moored at the Royal Harwich

10. Enjoying the river with the canoe or having a swim, if the sun is shining there is nothing better to do.

Obviously there are also all the other things which make TG so special, like her beautiful interior, cooking on the red range, the welcome bottle of wine and the chocolate cake :-)

All our guests have found slightly different ways to enjoy TG and her location. We hope that you will agree that a holiday aboard is a unique experience and if you haven't tried it already please come and visit us in 2014.

Thursday 19 September 2013

De Jong Sjoerd to Twee Gebroeders - tracing the history of our barge

Written on the side of TG's hull is a registration number G5849N which has been our key to uncovering some of her history.

With the kind and invaluable help of the Maritime Museum of Rotterdam we have found out that TG was built in 1914 in Heeg, Friesland.

Her first Meetbrief records her registration on 12th October 1914 in Sneek. She was registered as "De Jong Sjoerd" which means the young Sjoerd, Sjoerd being a Christian name in the Netherlands. It seems likely that she was named after her first owners son. 

She was listed as a Roefschip which was a barge with a very low pitched roof over her cargo hold. There is a good description with the correct names for all the various components on this website http://www.skutsjehistorie.nl/onderdelen_skutsje.php Hover over the words and the corresponding component is highlighted on the drawing.

Her initial registration on 12th October 1914

Her next record dates back to 1941 and gives the name of the yard where she was built as "Gebr de Jong. We have managed to find a great Dutch website with detailed information about this yard http://www.skutsjehistorie.nl/scheepsbouw.php?id=86

Her second registration document dated 1941

De Jong Sjoerd sailing in 1946

The final record we have is dated 1978 and was probably made just before she left the Netherlands for the UK. She is now listed as Twee Gebroeders.

Her third registration document dated 1978 

Sometimes it is good to remember how far we have travelled.

When I was a child I was obsessed with the Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons stories. I hankered after the independence, carefree existence and endless adventures messing about on the water; I wanted to be one of the Walker children. Three decades on and I am just beginning to realise those dreams.

Given that these originated from a love of all things Ransome it would have been fitting if my first dalliance with adventures afloat had been in a traditional clinker built dinghy with tan sails. However this is not the route my husband, Tim, and I decided to follow when we set out to buy a boat and embark on a life changing adventure. We needed something more challenging than a small sailing boat and so after much thought plumped for a 60 foot Dutch sailing barge which we intended to renovate The plan was for Tim to give up his day job in web design and for us to convert the barge for use as a holiday business. In true Swallows and Amazons style we thought “if not duffers…..what could possibly go wrong?

Well as it turned out quite a lot! In June 2008 we took delivery of a hundred year old Dutch Skutsje class sailing barge called Twee Gebroeders and embarked on a full restoration and a very steep learning curve.

Sitting in the cockpit on the day be bought TG in Bristol

Coming out of the water at Bristol Marina

Neither of us had any experience of barges and so made our first mistake almost immediately by buying without a survey. As it turned out this was not too disastrous for us as we subsequently stripped the boat back to a bare hull and in doing so found everything that a survey would have revealed. She had large areas of rust in several sections of her topsides and her hull needed to be completely over plated. Her mast was also rotten inside and would need to be replaced before we would be able to hoist her rather enormous sails.

Stripping out the interior

In the summer of 2008 we set about renovating Twee Gebroeders (or TG as she affectionately became known) from Melton Boatyard at the head of the River Deben. Without any previous experience or any real DIY acumen we tackled a host of jobs that we wouldn’t previously have dreamed about in our quest to rebuild our 111 year old barge. Over a two year period we cut off the roof and raised the head height inside by 6 inches. We took off the swinging counter balance on the mast and added a new cabin to the front of the barge. We cut holes for new windows which we had made by Houdini Marine and then primed, battened and had the interior spray foam insulated. We installed new water tanks, plumbing, wiring and commissioned a completely new cabinet made interior from solid iroko, fitted by Paul Andrews now of Heritage Coast Cabinet Makers. We sanded, primed, painted and varnished; changing the outside colour scheme several times before we were happy.

Cutting the roof off to raise the height

Adding a new cabin at the front which is now the master bedroom

Along the way we learnt a huge amount about barge restoration and marine systems as well as much about ourselves and our ability to cope in high pressure situations. We had many moments of despair, most memorably in the winter of 2008 when TG was a bare hull with no roof attached; open to the elements and leaking water. Work was slow due to freezing temperatures and snow and our asset was valued for insurance at a fraction of her purchase price.

Foam insulation

We were initially quite naïve and made some silly mistakes but we soon found out what jobs we could safely tackle ourselves and what was best left to the experts. We were warned at the outset to work out a budget and then double it; advice which we took with a pinch of salt but which turned out to be so true. We ran over time and over budget by some considerable amount just at the height of the banking crisis when money became harder to source. As a result we spent many sleepless nights wondering how we were going to raise the capital to finish our restoration.

Tim preparing the outside for painting

Somehow we managed and in June 2010 we applied our last coat of paint and took our first holiday booking and really felt like we had achieved something. Since then we have welcomed hundreds of people aboard and have had some amazing feedback from our guests. The most notable of which came from a London family who thanked us for the opportunity to experience a good old fashioned family adventure and to rediscover something they felt they had lost from their own childhood.

The newly fitted out saloon

The new accommodation has made a cosy master bedroom

Twee Gebroeders is now moored at Pin Mill on the River Orwell a place notable for its Arthur Ransome connections. With Alma Cottage, the Butt and Oyster and the Nancy Blackett moored just upstream at Woolverstone I am feeling more involved in the Ransome experience by the day. We regularly run TG up and down the Orwell and Stour but currently have to motor everywhere as our mast still needs replacing. This will be our next step; a new mast, new rigging and then the sails can be put back.


Thirty years ago when I sat engrossed in the pages of Swallows and Amazons I never dreamed that one day my life would be one of sailing boats and outdoor adventure. For me it just goes to prove if you take an opportunity when it’s presented, if not duffers…dreams can come true!